Vancouver sushi chef who invented California roll reflects on career

For 36 years, Tojo’s Restaurant has been a mainstay in the Vancouver food scene, beloved by critics, foodies, and a plethora of celebrities.

The restaurant’s popularity is all thanks to Michelin Star chef Hidekazu Tojo, who helped bring sushi to the mainstream with the invention of the California roll.

Tojo says when he moved to Vancouver, he was in search of a sushi roll that would appeal to Canadians.

“I came in 1971, long time ago, 53 years ago,” he said.

“People said, ‘oh Tojo, no seaweed, Canadian people, they don’t eat sushi,’ OK, so maybe I’ll make it inside out and hide it — slowly, slowly grew, and then after a few years it was everywhere.”

And that is how the California roll was born — but to Tojo, this iconic roll goes by a different name.

“They call it a California roll, but at that time, I called it ‘Inside out.'”

Now in his 70s, Chef Tojo is looking back on his life and the legacy he will one day leave behind through his upcoming feature documentary, The Chef and the Daruma.

The film tells a story of immigration, identity, and reinvention through different dishes, as Tojo recalls his early years as a Japanese immigrant.

Going forward, Tojo says he plans to keep cooking.

“Because people, until [they] die, you know…eat.”

The Chef and the Daruma premieres at the Vancouver International Film Festival on Oct. 6.